I just uploaded some photos to my Flickr account and made a slideshow. (I'm waiting at home for my new water heater to be installed). The photos are small for now but I'll get bigger versions uploaded sometime in the future.
For those wondering... the photography placed second to the videography as the trip progressed. I shot 1200 photos over nine days, which may seem like a lot but it was much less than I had anticipated. However, I also shot seven hours of video footage on three cameras that I plan to turn into several video projects. Over the past 10 days I've been uploading the video to my computer and starting the editing process. It'll take some time. But the "trailer" is almost finished. I'll post that sometime later this week. It'll give you insight into the adventurous nature of my journey and, hopefully, make you chuckle a bit, too.
For now, a few of the still pics...
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Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
An Evening With Bob Bennett
I just got home after a most wonderful evening of music, fellowship and dinner with church friends, one of whom now includes artist Bob Bennett. Bob is an amazing songwriter whose voice instantly sinks to the soul as his words penetrate the heart with truth, honesty and thoughtfulness. I highly encourage you to read and hear more about him on his website: www.bob-bennett.com.
Bob put on a concert tonight at Crossroads in front of a small but blessed crowd. And we got quite a blessing. It was just Bob, his guitar, his humor, and his songs. He needed no band behind him, no flashy lights, and no eloquent introduction. It was just musician, songwriter and Christian brother Bob Bennett, unveiled in authenticity. (Authenticity for the owner of a fleet of No. 1 songs and one of Christian music's 20 greatest albums, "Matters of the Heart"!)
Having dinner with him and several folks from the church was just icing on the cake. I could tell he was tired (and who wouldn't be after singing for 90 minutes straight?) but he humored us. And I was greatly appreciative.
Bob is one of those Christian music artists that time forgot. As the CCM business moved towards artists like Steven Curtis Chapman, Third Day, Chris Tomlin and others, the "old guard" was left outside the camp, so to speak. The men and women who built the industry became the outsiders and took to touring and private concerts to make a living. Heard much from Dallas Holm, Billy Sprague, Twila Paris, Bruce Carroll, David Meece, Billy Crockett, Kathy Trocolli, Wayne Watson, Randy Stonehill and Russ Taff lately? These are the artists I grew up listening to. These artists and... Bob Bennett.
When Bob made his debut on the Christian music scene in 1979, he was one of a number of stars added to the young but growing CCM movement. For example, his debut came about the same time as Wayne Watson, Amy Grant, Roby Duke, Carman, and several others. Bands like Petra and the Imperials had been around but hit their peak in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Bob's debut album and the two following were hits and he found himself touring with the likes of Amy Grant.
But when Bob faded to the background around 1990, mainstream Christian music left him there. He has released four albums in the last 20 years and does mostly concerts now just to bring in income for he and his wife. But the infrequency of recordings means that the quality is better, I think. He is an amazing songwriter and I would love to sit at his feet and ask questions about how he does it. I didn't get the chance tonight but maybe one day I will.
Here's a video of Bob shot a few years ago when his son was in the Marines. It the song of a military dad called, "My Heart Across the Ocean." Enjoy!
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Bob put on a concert tonight at Crossroads in front of a small but blessed crowd. And we got quite a blessing. It was just Bob, his guitar, his humor, and his songs. He needed no band behind him, no flashy lights, and no eloquent introduction. It was just musician, songwriter and Christian brother Bob Bennett, unveiled in authenticity. (Authenticity for the owner of a fleet of No. 1 songs and one of Christian music's 20 greatest albums, "Matters of the Heart"!)
Having dinner with him and several folks from the church was just icing on the cake. I could tell he was tired (and who wouldn't be after singing for 90 minutes straight?) but he humored us. And I was greatly appreciative.
Bob is one of those Christian music artists that time forgot. As the CCM business moved towards artists like Steven Curtis Chapman, Third Day, Chris Tomlin and others, the "old guard" was left outside the camp, so to speak. The men and women who built the industry became the outsiders and took to touring and private concerts to make a living. Heard much from Dallas Holm, Billy Sprague, Twila Paris, Bruce Carroll, David Meece, Billy Crockett, Kathy Trocolli, Wayne Watson, Randy Stonehill and Russ Taff lately? These are the artists I grew up listening to. These artists and... Bob Bennett.
When Bob made his debut on the Christian music scene in 1979, he was one of a number of stars added to the young but growing CCM movement. For example, his debut came about the same time as Wayne Watson, Amy Grant, Roby Duke, Carman, and several others. Bands like Petra and the Imperials had been around but hit their peak in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Bob's debut album and the two following were hits and he found himself touring with the likes of Amy Grant.
But when Bob faded to the background around 1990, mainstream Christian music left him there. He has released four albums in the last 20 years and does mostly concerts now just to bring in income for he and his wife. But the infrequency of recordings means that the quality is better, I think. He is an amazing songwriter and I would love to sit at his feet and ask questions about how he does it. I didn't get the chance tonight but maybe one day I will.
Here's a video of Bob shot a few years ago when his son was in the Marines. It the song of a military dad called, "My Heart Across the Ocean." Enjoy!
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Saturday, June 26, 2010
Indiana John & the Search for the Hot Water
Catchy title, methinks, but not too far off from reality. Seems I've been on a search for a hot, reliable shower all month, from the campground to my own home. Here is what I dream about these days:
Here is what I have now:
Or something like that. Here's why:
My water heater has finally reached its lifespan, a good 20 years of faithful service. I noticed a problem last Saturday when I found my bathroom carpet soaked in water and a puddle surrounding my water heater cabinet. The thing was leaking from the top and leaking from the bottom. Ever since, I've been trying to survive on short, leaky bursts of hot water and a lot of hope. My carpet is still damp a week later, though I've been drying it every evening this week. Even brought out a wet/dry vac my folks lent me.
Today I entertained three handymen as they looked over my situation and reported back to my landlord their repair and cost estimates. It's gonna cost. A. Lot. Mainly because of some code issues and the age of my small lake cabin. We'll see if Monday or Tuesday the thing can be replaced. Something tells me it won't be easy.
Such a take-for-granted thing, hot water is. When I was camping during my vacation I longed desperately for a hot shower every day. I got one at a state park the evening of day 4 and had some smaller sponge bath-esque showers along the way but not the long soak my body desired. I longed to return home not because I missed my stuff or even my family (though I did) but because I missed my shower!
I had it for a week. A glorious week. before I must once again embark on... "The Search for the Hot Water" (to be read with a dramatic voice). Stay tuned...
.
My water heater has finally reached its lifespan, a good 20 years of faithful service. I noticed a problem last Saturday when I found my bathroom carpet soaked in water and a puddle surrounding my water heater cabinet. The thing was leaking from the top and leaking from the bottom. Ever since, I've been trying to survive on short, leaky bursts of hot water and a lot of hope. My carpet is still damp a week later, though I've been drying it every evening this week. Even brought out a wet/dry vac my folks lent me.
Today I entertained three handymen as they looked over my situation and reported back to my landlord their repair and cost estimates. It's gonna cost. A. Lot. Mainly because of some code issues and the age of my small lake cabin. We'll see if Monday or Tuesday the thing can be replaced. Something tells me it won't be easy.
Such a take-for-granted thing, hot water is. When I was camping during my vacation I longed desperately for a hot shower every day. I got one at a state park the evening of day 4 and had some smaller sponge bath-esque showers along the way but not the long soak my body desired. I longed to return home not because I missed my stuff or even my family (though I did) but because I missed my shower!
I had it for a week. A glorious week. before I must once again embark on... "The Search for the Hot Water" (to be read with a dramatic voice). Stay tuned...
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Monday, June 21, 2010
Vacation Debrief: Sunrises and Sunsets
I am not a morning person.
But getting up at 5:45 or 6 nearly every morning of my trip proved to be worth it, if only for the feeling of having extra time to my day. Of course, good feelings aside, I really got up for two reasons: because I could not turn off the sunlight in my tent and for photography. As any driven photographer knows, there are only two parts of the day deemed "right" for quality photography. The first part is the 30 minutes before and after sunrise. Similarly, the second good part comes 30 minutes before and after sunset. Why? It all has to do with the lighting. Being outdoors means that you are dependent on the sun's light, which can quickly go from soft to harsh. It starts off soft at sunrise and everything has an even glow. After sunset, the same effect occurs and the lighting is perfect for outdoor photography.
So I snapped a few shots of the sunrises and sunsets along my way and I wanted to share a few with you below.
— John
This cottonball cloud pattern, called mamatus, occurred on the edge of a thunderstorm that ushered in sunset at Manzano Mtns State Park.
But getting up at 5:45 or 6 nearly every morning of my trip proved to be worth it, if only for the feeling of having extra time to my day. Of course, good feelings aside, I really got up for two reasons: because I could not turn off the sunlight in my tent and for photography. As any driven photographer knows, there are only two parts of the day deemed "right" for quality photography. The first part is the 30 minutes before and after sunrise. Similarly, the second good part comes 30 minutes before and after sunset. Why? It all has to do with the lighting. Being outdoors means that you are dependent on the sun's light, which can quickly go from soft to harsh. It starts off soft at sunrise and everything has an even glow. After sunset, the same effect occurs and the lighting is perfect for outdoor photography.
So I snapped a few shots of the sunrises and sunsets along my way and I wanted to share a few with you below.
— John
Sunset over Pecos River Canyon, Villanueva State Park.
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Just after sunset over El Malpais Nat'l Monument you can see a star or planet (it was bright, yet flickering) hovering over daylight's last gasp.
Sunrise over the San Luis Valley and Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Colorado.
Sunrise over Bluewater Canyon.
Sunset over Great Sand Dunes National Park.
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Vacation Debrief: Lodging
Hey all,
Well, a week has passed since I returned home from lands out west and my re-acclimation to North Texas life has not been easy. I was only gone nine days but those nine days were just enough time to flush some of the status quo out of my system and cause me to develop some new routines.
Like getting a campsite set up every evening at dusk. To save money and enhance the traveling experience, I decided to camp during my trip at state parks, public lands, and national forests. I grew up a camp kid, setting up A-frame tents and living with foam pads, sleeping bags and propane stoves since I was a little boy. I didn't like camping so much then and never appreciated it. But now... my heart has turned and I find that life peaceful and desirable. But even though it has much peace, there is always responsibility in camping.
So every night, setting up camp involved selecting a desired campsite (usually on the outer edge of a campground but not too far from other people). I would sometimes drive around a campground three or four times before my indecisive mind would get sick of itself and just pick one. Once I did, I would fill out the appropriate campground paperwork, drop it in the payment box, and then go about claiming my spot before someone beat me to it.
I learned a valuable lesson my first night on the road about staking one's property claim. My first night was spent at Villanueva State Park south of Las Vegas, NM, a charming canyon locale buzzing with activity. The first weekend of June must have been a state holiday or something because the place was packed, save for a few open camp sites.
I circled the upper campground about five times before I spotted a sheltered site back away from the road. It was perfect! The shelter was an adobe building, essentially, with a canyon view that was unmatched among campsites. I set down some of my stuff on a picnic table outside the shelter to lay claim to the spot while I went to the campground entrance to pay. When I got back to my spot... the shelter was taken. Several cars had moved in and their passengers were unloading. Turns out I claimed the wrong picnic table. At the wrong spot. In the right campground, so at least I had that going for me! I settled for something less and swore to never make that mistake again.
Setting up a campsite also involved getting stuff out of my car, a task that grew more and more frustrating every night. When I packed my car, I thought I had things perfectly organized, only to find my organization a complete mess once I hit the road. I had camping stuff in the trunk, my guitar and video stuff in the back seat, and my still camera and power supplies in the front seat. Over the course of nine days I think I managed to bury every important thing where it was least accessible, a complete and utter failure of organization and convenience! And I was pulling gobs of stuff out of my car every evening and dragging the needed items to the picnic table.
And then there was the tent... I had spent all of two night in my NorthPointe tent before this trip, so I was still relatively unfamiliar with it as a home. As the days progressed, I grew in my tenting (is that even a word?) skills and became quite fond of my little home. I never grew completely at ease with sleeping inches away from the outside world, with one or two layers of fabric separating me from the wildlife, but I employed several techniques to help me rest (earplugs, anyone?).
One of my biggest struggles as a camper came in the area of privacy. As much as I wanted to be around other people for community, safety, and comfort, I also wanted to be able to bathe in privacy, find an outdoor men's room, or just be able to shine my flashlight without worrying about disturbing my neighbors. Another struggle dealt with light. I had intended to bring fire starting materials with me but accidentally left them at home. With burn bans across New Mexico that prohibited the collection of firewood, I was left in the dark with only a LED lantern and three small flashlights. I eventually bought a couple of fireplace starter logs but they lasted only briefly.
Mornings brought the biggest joys of camping in scenic locations. At first daylight, which was impossible to ignore in a tent, I looked outside to find myself surrounded by canyons, mountains, desert lands, and beautiful lakes. Here are a few campground locations I enjoyed:
Camping was an amazing experience that ignited inner desires to continue it into the future. I loved the peace of wind passing through the trees, of stars burning pin-sized holes in the midnight sky, and amazing sunrises over mountain, meadow, valley, canyon and water. Even though I did not have the comforts of home, there was still comfort in knowing that God was a security more real than He ever seemed before. There was nothing to keep a bear from making a snack out of me or a cougar, or a crazed duck for that matter! And if a branch fell on my tent or a burglar burgled, there was nothing to stop them. But God.
Camping is an act of faith. It takes a lot of nerve for a city slicker like me, but it was well worth it.
.
Well, a week has passed since I returned home from lands out west and my re-acclimation to North Texas life has not been easy. I was only gone nine days but those nine days were just enough time to flush some of the status quo out of my system and cause me to develop some new routines.
Like getting a campsite set up every evening at dusk. To save money and enhance the traveling experience, I decided to camp during my trip at state parks, public lands, and national forests. I grew up a camp kid, setting up A-frame tents and living with foam pads, sleeping bags and propane stoves since I was a little boy. I didn't like camping so much then and never appreciated it. But now... my heart has turned and I find that life peaceful and desirable. But even though it has much peace, there is always responsibility in camping.
So every night, setting up camp involved selecting a desired campsite (usually on the outer edge of a campground but not too far from other people). I would sometimes drive around a campground three or four times before my indecisive mind would get sick of itself and just pick one. Once I did, I would fill out the appropriate campground paperwork, drop it in the payment box, and then go about claiming my spot before someone beat me to it.
I learned a valuable lesson my first night on the road about staking one's property claim. My first night was spent at Villanueva State Park south of Las Vegas, NM, a charming canyon locale buzzing with activity. The first weekend of June must have been a state holiday or something because the place was packed, save for a few open camp sites.
I circled the upper campground about five times before I spotted a sheltered site back away from the road. It was perfect! The shelter was an adobe building, essentially, with a canyon view that was unmatched among campsites. I set down some of my stuff on a picnic table outside the shelter to lay claim to the spot while I went to the campground entrance to pay. When I got back to my spot... the shelter was taken. Several cars had moved in and their passengers were unloading. Turns out I claimed the wrong picnic table. At the wrong spot. In the right campground, so at least I had that going for me! I settled for something less and swore to never make that mistake again.
My campsite, lower-left, and the nice adobe shelter, upper right.
Setting up a campsite also involved getting stuff out of my car, a task that grew more and more frustrating every night. When I packed my car, I thought I had things perfectly organized, only to find my organization a complete mess once I hit the road. I had camping stuff in the trunk, my guitar and video stuff in the back seat, and my still camera and power supplies in the front seat. Over the course of nine days I think I managed to bury every important thing where it was least accessible, a complete and utter failure of organization and convenience! And I was pulling gobs of stuff out of my car every evening and dragging the needed items to the picnic table.
The morning after the first night, before my campsite became more complicated.
I just set up a tent and campstove that first night, leaving everything else in the car.
And then there was the tent... I had spent all of two night in my NorthPointe tent before this trip, so I was still relatively unfamiliar with it as a home. As the days progressed, I grew in my tenting (is that even a word?) skills and became quite fond of my little home. I never grew completely at ease with sleeping inches away from the outside world, with one or two layers of fabric separating me from the wildlife, but I employed several techniques to help me rest (earplugs, anyone?).
One of my biggest struggles as a camper came in the area of privacy. As much as I wanted to be around other people for community, safety, and comfort, I also wanted to be able to bathe in privacy, find an outdoor men's room, or just be able to shine my flashlight without worrying about disturbing my neighbors. Another struggle dealt with light. I had intended to bring fire starting materials with me but accidentally left them at home. With burn bans across New Mexico that prohibited the collection of firewood, I was left in the dark with only a LED lantern and three small flashlights. I eventually bought a couple of fireplace starter logs but they lasted only briefly.
Mornings brought the biggest joys of camping in scenic locations. At first daylight, which was impossible to ignore in a tent, I looked outside to find myself surrounded by canyons, mountains, desert lands, and beautiful lakes. Here are a few campground locations I enjoyed:
Manzano Mountains State Park, the cleanest campground with amazing mountain atmosphere. I also got a shelter to use for privacy (yay!).
The most rugged of campgrounds, a BLM establishment located next to El Malpais National Monument. There was no water, no security, no pavement, no picnic table and no lights. Just a rocky, cactus-infested spot to camp for free.
Sugarite Canyon State Park, my final stop. I spent my coldest night here but the morning views of the valley with fog rolling through was amazing.
Sometimes campground plans don't work out. For instance, when I went to Great Sand Dunes National Park, I intended to camp at the park itself. However, when I arrived, the campground was full, so I turned around and went to the closest state park. After wrestling with paying the steep camping fee there, I eventually caved and crashed at 11pm. The next morning I was greeted by mountains. In another example, below, I planned to camp at a free campground on the rim of Rio Grande Gorge, and when I arrived I found myself all alone. I soon figured out why. Because my campsite was 30 feet from the rim of the gorge, there was nothing to block the wind. I hung on for dear life for a few hours before calling it quits and finding a state park. I drove for hours as the sun set until I found a suitable place, again crashing at 11pm or later.
Camping was an amazing experience that ignited inner desires to continue it into the future. I loved the peace of wind passing through the trees, of stars burning pin-sized holes in the midnight sky, and amazing sunrises over mountain, meadow, valley, canyon and water. Even though I did not have the comforts of home, there was still comfort in knowing that God was a security more real than He ever seemed before. There was nothing to keep a bear from making a snack out of me or a cougar, or a crazed duck for that matter! And if a branch fell on my tent or a burglar burgled, there was nothing to stop them. But God.
Camping is an act of faith. It takes a lot of nerve for a city slicker like me, but it was well worth it.
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Monday, June 14, 2010
As I continue to unpack, wash stuff, and get mentally prepared for going back to work, I just wanted to share with you a list of places I ventured off the beaten path the previous nine days. The list is staggering... even to me! The sad thing is that I regret that I didn't go more places.
A good vacation, I would think. Pictures and video are coming later on. For now I need to enjoy my second hot shower in the last 12 hours and dry my clothes to see which items survived the trip.
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- Santa Rosa and Puerta de Luna (chasing a Cornado legend)
- Villanueva and Villaneuva State Park (Spanish colony and amazing canyon area)
- The Manzano Mountains of central NM
- Abo Ruins church and pueblo (part of Salinas Pueblo Missions Nat'l Monument)
- Qurai Ruins church and pueblo (part of same Nat'l Monument)
- Albuquerque and Petroglyphs National Monument
- El Malpais National Monument (lava flow and volcanoes)
- El Morro National Monument (inscription rock for travelers)
- The Bisti Badlands Wilderness Area (unique geological formations)
- Aztec Ruins National Monument (a gigantic pueblo)
- Durango, Pagosa Springs (my future home), Wolf Creek Pass, and Alamosa, Colorado
- Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve
- The Rio Grande Gorge (barely survived)
- Taos & Angel Fire, NM
- Bandelier National Monument (reached the gatehouse. costs $12 to enter. I said no.)
- Valles Caldera National Preserve (a supervolcano)
- Jemez State Monument (another pueblo and mission ruin)
- Pecos National Historical Park (yet another pueblo and mission)
- Fort Union National Monument & the Santa Fe National Historic Trail
- Sugarite Canyon & State Park
- Capulin Volcano National Monument
A good vacation, I would think. Pictures and video are coming later on. For now I need to enjoy my second hot shower in the last 12 hours and dry my clothes to see which items survived the trip.
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Sunday, June 13, 2010
Home, Sweaty Home
The adventure mobile rolled into the home office at 10pm sharp tonight and one tired, sweaty, scruffy and thinner adventurer got out. Had enough. For today.
It's very difficult to miss 60-percent humidity and 90 degrees. VERY hard to miss it. I didn't. Honestly, I don't think this climate suits me. Not even my suits suit me, but that's a different matter.
My trip was wonderful and tiring at the same time. I did rest, yes, but not so much that I started to dwell on the magnitude and circumstance of my travels. I had a very ambitious agenda for this odyssey and I was going alone.The more time I have to sit still and think, the more I dwell on my loneliness. So I kept moving. And it, for the most part, worked.
I hit seven national monuments, one national park, one national historical park, one national preserve, and one New Mexico state monument during my nine-day journey. I camped in six state parks, one national forest, and one Bureau of Land Management campground. I tried to stay at another national forest site but nearly got blown into the Rio Grande Gorge. But that's another story... I drove 3,200 miles in my little warrior, a 2008 Ford Focus, averaging 36 miles per gallon (with a 14-gallon tank). And I stopped in more McDonald's than I'd like to admit to use the free Wi-Fi and snack on a dollar burger and dollar drink. Hey, I ain't roughin it without Dr. Pepper!
All in all, the trip made me realize that there was so much of this world I have not seen and I want to see it. I want to take pictures of it and video and share it with others who cannot escape their desks to see it in person. Though I wish each and every one of you would at some point in life. I love to travel and I love to drive. Especially down new paths to new places because I enjoy exploration and adventure. I learned many lessons but my energy is gone tongiht, so I'll share them with you in coming days.
Above all, I thank my High Protector for seeing me through this massive mission and getting me out of my own way. For I am my own worst enemy. All the devil has to do is stand back and watch. My pride took many hits during this trip and God's provision shined forth. He alone kept me on the road. And He kept me from hurting any poor New Mexicans as I steamed from place to place! God does care.
Good night!
— "Fearless" Newton
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It's very difficult to miss 60-percent humidity and 90 degrees. VERY hard to miss it. I didn't. Honestly, I don't think this climate suits me. Not even my suits suit me, but that's a different matter.
My trip was wonderful and tiring at the same time. I did rest, yes, but not so much that I started to dwell on the magnitude and circumstance of my travels. I had a very ambitious agenda for this odyssey and I was going alone.The more time I have to sit still and think, the more I dwell on my loneliness. So I kept moving. And it, for the most part, worked.
I hit seven national monuments, one national park, one national historical park, one national preserve, and one New Mexico state monument during my nine-day journey. I camped in six state parks, one national forest, and one Bureau of Land Management campground. I tried to stay at another national forest site but nearly got blown into the Rio Grande Gorge. But that's another story... I drove 3,200 miles in my little warrior, a 2008 Ford Focus, averaging 36 miles per gallon (with a 14-gallon tank). And I stopped in more McDonald's than I'd like to admit to use the free Wi-Fi and snack on a dollar burger and dollar drink. Hey, I ain't roughin it without Dr. Pepper!
All in all, the trip made me realize that there was so much of this world I have not seen and I want to see it. I want to take pictures of it and video and share it with others who cannot escape their desks to see it in person. Though I wish each and every one of you would at some point in life. I love to travel and I love to drive. Especially down new paths to new places because I enjoy exploration and adventure. I learned many lessons but my energy is gone tongiht, so I'll share them with you in coming days.
Above all, I thank my High Protector for seeing me through this massive mission and getting me out of my own way. For I am my own worst enemy. All the devil has to do is stand back and watch. My pride took many hits during this trip and God's provision shined forth. He alone kept me on the road. And He kept me from hurting any poor New Mexicans as I steamed from place to place! God does care.
Good night!
— "Fearless" Newton
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The Long Road East
Trip Day 9....
Well, I'm in Dalhart, Texas, on my way home. Should be home around midnight at this pace. The drive back seems longer than the drive to New Mexico. maybe this is because fatigue wasn't an issue then. I'm bushed now. But I'll be all right.
Gotta hit the road (again)!
— John
UPDATE: Just found Wi-Fi at a rest stop in Donley County, TX. Kewl. I'm about 20 miles from Memphis. Sadly, the Dairy Queen that was a regular stopping point for the Newtons has closed down. I didn't see a replacement. On a side note, I do believe I saw more Dairy Queens than McDonald's on my trip. They were in every little town. Nice, new buildings, too. Seems that while DQ is dying in Texas, it's alive and well in New Mexico.
Better hit the road again. Just thought I'd use this cool thing called free Wi-Fi.
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Well, I'm in Dalhart, Texas, on my way home. Should be home around midnight at this pace. The drive back seems longer than the drive to New Mexico. maybe this is because fatigue wasn't an issue then. I'm bushed now. But I'll be all right.
Gotta hit the road (again)!
— John
UPDATE: Just found Wi-Fi at a rest stop in Donley County, TX. Kewl. I'm about 20 miles from Memphis. Sadly, the Dairy Queen that was a regular stopping point for the Newtons has closed down. I didn't see a replacement. On a side note, I do believe I saw more Dairy Queens than McDonald's on my trip. They were in every little town. Nice, new buildings, too. Seems that while DQ is dying in Texas, it's alive and well in New Mexico.
Better hit the road again. Just thought I'd use this cool thing called free Wi-Fi.
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Saturday, June 12, 2010
Living Life Inside... a Supervolcano!
I kid you not. Of course, Valles Caldera isn't active anymore and is of no immediate threat to anyone, but those facts are just plain boring. The more exciting facts to a super-adventurer like me is that Valles Caldera is one of three supervolcano calderas currently monitored by the United States Geological Service for signs of activity. The other two show more life than Valles. One of them you've heard of: Yellowstone. But even while I was there I saw monitoring stations at various places, recording data. I tried to get into the most interesting place in the caldera, a place privately owned and coveted by scientists. It's called Sulfur Canyon and it's the location of most of the caldera's steam emissions, fumeroles (gas and steam vents) and bubbling sulfur springs. But a gate blocked my path. Drats!
On the non-volcanic side, Valles Caldera is a most amazing place to visit. There are vast valleys of green grass, pine-covered mountains (...of lava and ash), cold mountain streams, waterfalls, and crisp, clean air. It was beautiful. I camped inside the caldera (man, was it hot!) at a busy campground (Cub Scout outing and marathon runners) and did some hiking up to a hot spring this morning. The weather was fantastic, though I am constantly reminded of how out of shape I am in! A 200-foot climb left me winded and wishing for death (or a jet pack).
I'm in Santa Fe right now, eating dollar food at a McDonald's so I don't feel guilty for using their free Wi-Fi service. This is a really neat city but buuuuueeeesssssaaaaaayyyyyy (busy). There are people walking all over the place! My next stop will be Fort Union National Monument. It's about two hours away but I'll be on the Interstate which will make the drive much better. Then I head to Raton and Sugarite State Park. It has received rave reviews and has been rated one of the state's best "hidden gems." There's an abandoned coal mining camp inside the park's grounds. Should be cool.
Here are a few pics from the past few days. I'll let you guess where I was and what I was doing. It's more fun that way!
— John
On the non-volcanic side, Valles Caldera is a most amazing place to visit. There are vast valleys of green grass, pine-covered mountains (...of lava and ash), cold mountain streams, waterfalls, and crisp, clean air. It was beautiful. I camped inside the caldera (man, was it hot!) at a busy campground (Cub Scout outing and marathon runners) and did some hiking up to a hot spring this morning. The weather was fantastic, though I am constantly reminded of how out of shape I am in! A 200-foot climb left me winded and wishing for death (or a jet pack).
I'm in Santa Fe right now, eating dollar food at a McDonald's so I don't feel guilty for using their free Wi-Fi service. This is a really neat city but buuuuueeeesssssaaaaaayyyyyy (busy). There are people walking all over the place! My next stop will be Fort Union National Monument. It's about two hours away but I'll be on the Interstate which will make the drive much better. Then I head to Raton and Sugarite State Park. It has received rave reviews and has been rated one of the state's best "hidden gems." There's an abandoned coal mining camp inside the park's grounds. Should be cool.
Here are a few pics from the past few days. I'll let you guess where I was and what I was doing. It's more fun that way!
— John
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Indiana John?
Just a fun pic I took yesterday inside a dark, booby-trapped temple of the ancient Aztecs (Aztec National Monument) in the spirit of adventure. I'm at the Alamosa McDonald's (again) eating a dollar menu breakfast and plotting my next path. This morning I visited Great Sand Dunes National Park and had a blast, though it was a bit chilly and windy. Yep. Chilly. 44 degrees. In June. Oh yeah, a guy could get used to this... Next camping destination is a small free campground on the lip of Rio Grande Gorge in New Mexico. I have to get there in plenty of time to claim my spot. I tacked on a few extra pics from Aztec for you.
— John
Aztec Ruins National Monument reminded me a LOT of ancient walled cities of Old Testament Caanan. The walls of this 500-room pueblo/city were 3-4 feet thick on average and the pueblo stood three stories tall. Each family had a 10x10 room for a home and they had a number of kivas (religious meeting places). One had been reconstructed in the 1920's by an archaeologist (pictured at left). Cool yet eerie.
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— John
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Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Trip Diary: Day Three
TRAVELOR'S NOTE: I'm a day behind in posting these due to computer, Wi-Fi and location issues. One day I will have an iPad just like the two million of you who bought one and my computer worries will cease, no? I'm typing this in Alamosa, Colorado after driving 400 miles. Great Sand Dunes National Park is my next stop. The sun is setting. Gotta go!
Day 3
Manzano Mtns. State Park to El Malpais National Monument
My campsite this time was more than I could have asked. I had quiet, a shelter with picnic table, flat space for my tent, and my car was parked within 10 feet of my shelter. Add to that the beauty of the ponderosa pines, the 7,000-foot altitude and the availability of restrooms with flush toilets and I was in hog heaven. I took it slow this morning and got my gear re-organized. I had found through two nights on the road that my stuff was most inconveniently packed. Sometimes I think a chimpanzee could do a better job than I of getting his ducks in a row. I had toiletries scattered in three places, flashlights in two places (which I could not remember), and electronics scattered all across the front of my car. I had electrical cords wrapped around electrical cords, maps and brochures on the passenger side floorboard, the seat, and in the armrest. Add to that my pillows, guitar (yes, I brought that!), camera cases and other odds and ends, and I must’ve resembled a drifter with all his earthly goods piled in his dirt-covered four-door sedan. I kind of feel like a drifter this week, to be honest. It’s an uneasy feeling. Yet freeing in some strange way.
I arrived at the Quarai Ruins National Monument about 8:30am, or 30 minutes before they officially opened. I got my camera stuff in order (somewhat) and headed around the gate and into the ruins complex. I got a tip from someone high up in the national monument that even though it was technically trespassing on federal land it was all right this morning. I will not reveal my source….
Nevertheless, I had a good 30 minutes all alone inside the cavernous ruins of the Quarai mission church and grounds. It was amazing! Quiet and eerie. Serene and sanctified. Perfect lighting for photography. And then the park ranger showed up. A few minutes before park opening. And saw me in the church with my video camera. Silence……..
It was all right. His name was Murt and he was just fine with my being there. In fact, I got him to talk on-camera about the mission and associated pueblo (score!). We chatted for about 20 minutes and he shadowed me around to point out various parts of the complex. I then took a bunch of pics and headed down the road. It was a wonderful experience.
The drive to Albuquerque was long but had its moments. I never cease to be amazed at the geography of New Mexico and how much it reminds me of another place I’ve been this past year: California. The mountains are the same, the valleys are the same, the vegetation is very similar, and the adobe/Spanish architecture is the same. All New Mexico is missing is the climate and the ocean. And the earthquakes. And the mudslides. And…. Oh, never mind.
I drove through Albuquerque and stopped off at Petroglyphs National Monument, my second monument of this trip. I was excited at seeing my first sight of lava (I don’t know why, just was) but not excited by the weather. Albuquerque was experiencing a record heat wave and temperatures were sweltering. I arrived at the monument in the middle of the day after three hours of driving and… you get the picture. I stopped at the visitor’s center and then drove out to part of a canyon that contained petroglyphs (ancient native paintings on rock). An exhausted man got out of an exhausted car and wandered around a bit, taking silly video, and then retreated to the air conditioning of said car. I went to the volcanoes part of the monument but stayed inside my car. Could’ve walked. Didn’t.
At least I can say I’ve been there.
The drive to Grants was uneventful and shorter than I anticipated. I exited at McCarty’s and made my way south along the eastern edge of El Malpais National Monument, a 117,000-acre lava flow with multiple cinder cone volcanoes and incredible sandstone bluffs. Extremely cool. Uber cool. Totally cool. Even though it was hot. Not the lava. Me. (pause for laughter) I found this place to me incredible and the lava was only one part. The sandstone bluffs and cliffs were unreal. UN-Real. Beautiful. I have pictures to show later. The lava was neat to walk on and observe as it remained frozen in its ancient pose. There was vegetation on a lot of it but not all. In fact, some sections looked like they had just cooled yesterday. Which they hadn’t. Thankfully.
I camped at a BLM (Bureau of Land Management) campground, the most rugged place I’ve been so far. There was no water. And the campsites were very rugged with rocks and cactus everywhere. I had a rough night in large part to the lack of organization of my stuff and my failure to execute the most basic of bathroom/shower shelters. I needed something out there, especially since there weren’t any tall trees and the ones I had on hand were scattered and cracking from drought.
Day 4 Preview…..
Drove Around El Malpais, shot video, took pictures, listened to music, and interacted with folks along the way. Visited the other side of Malpais and El Morro National Monument. Both were incredible places. Picked up some cinder from the side of Bandera Volcano. Quickly. Looked so cool I just had to have some. Besides, the volcano won’t miss it, right? Right? Oh, for the count, that would be four national monuments down, four more to go. Oh yeah. I have Aztec Ruins on tap for Day 5 with Great Sand Dunes National Park. Then Bandelier Nat’l Monument, Pecdon National Historic Park, Ft. Union, and Capulin Volcano.
I’m sitting at a McDonald’s in Grants typing this at the end of day 4. A teenage mom, her boyfriend/husband/friend was next to her and her 2-year-old daughter was at the end of the table. There were other teenagers present at the table. During the whole meal, her daughter was left to fend for herself, poor thing, while her mom denied her attention. Mom was too busy being a teenager with friends. I feel for that little girl because I wonder if she will ever feel loved and wanted. I don’t know the family situation, of course, but gals like that mom need Teen MOPS. I wish more churches would make a conscious effort to help young mothers learn how to be a mother. When a gal and guy choose to have a child (and it is a choice), they need to take that next step in their maturity and become adults, even if they are teenagers. Their old lives are gone.
Anyway, I have to find someplace close to camp. Tomorrow morning I want to go to Bisti Badlands, Aztec and southern Colorado. It’s a long drive but northwest New Mexico is void of good places to camp. I have to get through there tomorrow.
— John
Day 3
Manzano Mtns. State Park to El Malpais National Monument
My campsite this time was more than I could have asked. I had quiet, a shelter with picnic table, flat space for my tent, and my car was parked within 10 feet of my shelter. Add to that the beauty of the ponderosa pines, the 7,000-foot altitude and the availability of restrooms with flush toilets and I was in hog heaven. I took it slow this morning and got my gear re-organized. I had found through two nights on the road that my stuff was most inconveniently packed. Sometimes I think a chimpanzee could do a better job than I of getting his ducks in a row. I had toiletries scattered in three places, flashlights in two places (which I could not remember), and electronics scattered all across the front of my car. I had electrical cords wrapped around electrical cords, maps and brochures on the passenger side floorboard, the seat, and in the armrest. Add to that my pillows, guitar (yes, I brought that!), camera cases and other odds and ends, and I must’ve resembled a drifter with all his earthly goods piled in his dirt-covered four-door sedan. I kind of feel like a drifter this week, to be honest. It’s an uneasy feeling. Yet freeing in some strange way.
I arrived at the Quarai Ruins National Monument about 8:30am, or 30 minutes before they officially opened. I got my camera stuff in order (somewhat) and headed around the gate and into the ruins complex. I got a tip from someone high up in the national monument that even though it was technically trespassing on federal land it was all right this morning. I will not reveal my source….
Nevertheless, I had a good 30 minutes all alone inside the cavernous ruins of the Quarai mission church and grounds. It was amazing! Quiet and eerie. Serene and sanctified. Perfect lighting for photography. And then the park ranger showed up. A few minutes before park opening. And saw me in the church with my video camera. Silence……..
It was all right. His name was Murt and he was just fine with my being there. In fact, I got him to talk on-camera about the mission and associated pueblo (score!). We chatted for about 20 minutes and he shadowed me around to point out various parts of the complex. I then took a bunch of pics and headed down the road. It was a wonderful experience.
The drive to Albuquerque was long but had its moments. I never cease to be amazed at the geography of New Mexico and how much it reminds me of another place I’ve been this past year: California. The mountains are the same, the valleys are the same, the vegetation is very similar, and the adobe/Spanish architecture is the same. All New Mexico is missing is the climate and the ocean. And the earthquakes. And the mudslides. And…. Oh, never mind.
I drove through Albuquerque and stopped off at Petroglyphs National Monument, my second monument of this trip. I was excited at seeing my first sight of lava (I don’t know why, just was) but not excited by the weather. Albuquerque was experiencing a record heat wave and temperatures were sweltering. I arrived at the monument in the middle of the day after three hours of driving and… you get the picture. I stopped at the visitor’s center and then drove out to part of a canyon that contained petroglyphs (ancient native paintings on rock). An exhausted man got out of an exhausted car and wandered around a bit, taking silly video, and then retreated to the air conditioning of said car. I went to the volcanoes part of the monument but stayed inside my car. Could’ve walked. Didn’t.
At least I can say I’ve been there.
The drive to Grants was uneventful and shorter than I anticipated. I exited at McCarty’s and made my way south along the eastern edge of El Malpais National Monument, a 117,000-acre lava flow with multiple cinder cone volcanoes and incredible sandstone bluffs. Extremely cool. Uber cool. Totally cool. Even though it was hot. Not the lava. Me. (pause for laughter) I found this place to me incredible and the lava was only one part. The sandstone bluffs and cliffs were unreal. UN-Real. Beautiful. I have pictures to show later. The lava was neat to walk on and observe as it remained frozen in its ancient pose. There was vegetation on a lot of it but not all. In fact, some sections looked like they had just cooled yesterday. Which they hadn’t. Thankfully.
I camped at a BLM (Bureau of Land Management) campground, the most rugged place I’ve been so far. There was no water. And the campsites were very rugged with rocks and cactus everywhere. I had a rough night in large part to the lack of organization of my stuff and my failure to execute the most basic of bathroom/shower shelters. I needed something out there, especially since there weren’t any tall trees and the ones I had on hand were scattered and cracking from drought.
Day 4 Preview…..
Drove Around El Malpais, shot video, took pictures, listened to music, and interacted with folks along the way. Visited the other side of Malpais and El Morro National Monument. Both were incredible places. Picked up some cinder from the side of Bandera Volcano. Quickly. Looked so cool I just had to have some. Besides, the volcano won’t miss it, right? Right? Oh, for the count, that would be four national monuments down, four more to go. Oh yeah. I have Aztec Ruins on tap for Day 5 with Great Sand Dunes National Park. Then Bandelier Nat’l Monument, Pecdon National Historic Park, Ft. Union, and Capulin Volcano.
I’m sitting at a McDonald’s in Grants typing this at the end of day 4. A teenage mom, her boyfriend/husband/friend was next to her and her 2-year-old daughter was at the end of the table. There were other teenagers present at the table. During the whole meal, her daughter was left to fend for herself, poor thing, while her mom denied her attention. Mom was too busy being a teenager with friends. I feel for that little girl because I wonder if she will ever feel loved and wanted. I don’t know the family situation, of course, but gals like that mom need Teen MOPS. I wish more churches would make a conscious effort to help young mothers learn how to be a mother. When a gal and guy choose to have a child (and it is a choice), they need to take that next step in their maturity and become adults, even if they are teenagers. Their old lives are gone.
Anyway, I have to find someplace close to camp. Tomorrow morning I want to go to Bisti Badlands, Aztec and southern Colorado. It’s a long drive but northwest New Mexico is void of good places to camp. I have to get through there tomorrow.
— John
Just after sunset over the rim of Villenueva canyon. I love night photography.
Here's your typical flower picture. or thistle. Or... whatever. This is still from day two. I haven't uploaded any more pics yet due to laptop power issues.
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Monday, June 7, 2010
Diary Day Two
Drove from Villanueva to Manzano Mountains State Park (and other places)
Today was a day of hard-knock lessons for me. Seems I cannot escape this life without them! Maybe they come to help me grow. On the flip side, maybe they come to discourage and stifle me. I can’t say.
Lesson #1 — Stay on the beaten path… if you’re looking for a campground! I drove 84 miles out of my way because I was trying to do “reconnaissance” on a campground. It was in the Cibola National Forest and, supposedly, was a great place to camp if you could find it. (I added that last part) I followed my directions and started down this two-lane asphalt road that looked pretty nice. It had yellow striping down the center, no speed limit, and clear directional signs. Eventually a fork came in the road: one way went to a state park, the other to the national forest campground. I turned towards the forest and… gulp… the road turned into a one-lane thoroughfare that looked as if it had been freshly paved. “Okay,” I thought. “Should be all right as long as no one comes from the other direction.” No one did. Thankfully. Eventually the road came upon the national forest border and, after a cattle guard, it turned into a horror flick for sedans. Dirt upon rock, ruts upon potholes, and an RV slowly making its way towards me. Feeling uneasy far from home in a fairly new passenger sedan, I went against my better judgment and continued on. “Maybe this won’t last long,” I thought. It did. For four miles. I went about 12 miles per hour, dodging ruts and bumps and rocks and fallen tree branches. Eventually I came to the campsite and… it wasn’t too special. It was crowded with people and not very scenic. I then realized that I had to go ALL THE WAY back.
My tale gets worse. Later this afternoon I went to find another campground — a free campground — and, guess what? Five miles of dust, but this road was much worse than the one before. And when I got the campground I found signs that said, “campground closed” all over the place. There wasn’t ANY sign of human habitation. None. And there was evidence that some really big animals had been there recently. Yikes! I wasted 45 minutes and put my poor little car through hell just to teach me a lesson.
What do I do with this knowledge? NEVER LEAVE THE PAVEMENT IF YOU’RE DRIVING A 4-DOOR SEDAN AND ARE THE LEAST BIT RUSTY IN YOUR SURVIVAL SKILLS.
I ended up at a marvelous location at that state park, Manzano Mountains State Park. I have a covered shelter, the crowd is quiet and right now I am listening to the wind roar through the Ponderosa Pines. Nice. Really Nice.
Lesson #2: Sometimes a bad day off the beaten path can turn into a great day off the beaten path if you persevere. I visited two REALLY amazing Spanish missions today, between my campground episodes. Both were off the beaten path. I tried to make it to the third leg of the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument but bad weather forced me to cancel my plans. The two I saw were incredible, and I plan to visit both again tomorrow when I head out of town. I have a special fascination with Spanish missions after my visit to California last summer and that fascination only gets stronger the more I learn about them. I’ll have pictures to share as well as video when I get back.
As for now, I need to finish making my bedding and get some prep work done on tomorrow’s adventures. I plan to go through Albuquerque on my way to El Malpais, or, the “badlands.” It’s a gigantic lava flow. Fun. My volcano adventures begin tomorrow!
Good night! (at 8:58pm)
Today was a day of hard-knock lessons for me. Seems I cannot escape this life without them! Maybe they come to help me grow. On the flip side, maybe they come to discourage and stifle me. I can’t say.
Lesson #1 — Stay on the beaten path… if you’re looking for a campground! I drove 84 miles out of my way because I was trying to do “reconnaissance” on a campground. It was in the Cibola National Forest and, supposedly, was a great place to camp if you could find it. (I added that last part) I followed my directions and started down this two-lane asphalt road that looked pretty nice. It had yellow striping down the center, no speed limit, and clear directional signs. Eventually a fork came in the road: one way went to a state park, the other to the national forest campground. I turned towards the forest and… gulp… the road turned into a one-lane thoroughfare that looked as if it had been freshly paved. “Okay,” I thought. “Should be all right as long as no one comes from the other direction.” No one did. Thankfully. Eventually the road came upon the national forest border and, after a cattle guard, it turned into a horror flick for sedans. Dirt upon rock, ruts upon potholes, and an RV slowly making its way towards me. Feeling uneasy far from home in a fairly new passenger sedan, I went against my better judgment and continued on. “Maybe this won’t last long,” I thought. It did. For four miles. I went about 12 miles per hour, dodging ruts and bumps and rocks and fallen tree branches. Eventually I came to the campsite and… it wasn’t too special. It was crowded with people and not very scenic. I then realized that I had to go ALL THE WAY back.
My tale gets worse. Later this afternoon I went to find another campground — a free campground — and, guess what? Five miles of dust, but this road was much worse than the one before. And when I got the campground I found signs that said, “campground closed” all over the place. There wasn’t ANY sign of human habitation. None. And there was evidence that some really big animals had been there recently. Yikes! I wasted 45 minutes and put my poor little car through hell just to teach me a lesson.
What do I do with this knowledge? NEVER LEAVE THE PAVEMENT IF YOU’RE DRIVING A 4-DOOR SEDAN AND ARE THE LEAST BIT RUSTY IN YOUR SURVIVAL SKILLS.
I ended up at a marvelous location at that state park, Manzano Mountains State Park. I have a covered shelter, the crowd is quiet and right now I am listening to the wind roar through the Ponderosa Pines. Nice. Really Nice.
Lesson #2: Sometimes a bad day off the beaten path can turn into a great day off the beaten path if you persevere. I visited two REALLY amazing Spanish missions today, between my campground episodes. Both were off the beaten path. I tried to make it to the third leg of the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument but bad weather forced me to cancel my plans. The two I saw were incredible, and I plan to visit both again tomorrow when I head out of town. I have a special fascination with Spanish missions after my visit to California last summer and that fascination only gets stronger the more I learn about them. I’ll have pictures to share as well as video when I get back.
As for now, I need to finish making my bedding and get some prep work done on tomorrow’s adventures. I plan to go through Albuquerque on my way to El Malpais, or, the “badlands.” It’s a gigantic lava flow. Fun. My volcano adventures begin tomorrow!
Good night! (at 8:58pm)
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Trip Diary: Day One
Day 1
Drove from Flower Mound to Villanueva, New Mexico. On a tank and a half of gas and a Gordon Lightfoot anthology.
Observations: The drive was a long one, though for some reason I expected it to feel longer. Maybe the excitement of finally going someplace new (or long lost) was making the town-to-town journey more bearable. I like driving in populated parts of the country, where you know that every 30 miles there is going to be another town or city and the chances of finding a gas station are good.
The northwestern portion of North Texas isn’t very scenic by most standards. Just field after field of farms, flat as can be, with a few trees scattered about every few miles. When I was driving, I couldn’t help but notice how far I could see. Trees and buildings really block my view in the suburbs. Out on the prairie I could see for 20 miles or more. Around Quanah there are four or so strange hills jutting out of the ground, sticking out like four sore thumbs. They appear to be natural formations but the ancient Comanches thought them to be medicine mounds, homes to spirits who could drive out illness. As a result, the mounds are sacred sites to that tribe. I didn’t have a chance to explore due to time constraints but may on my way back home.
Amarillo was… well, Amarillo. Flat, flat and more flat. But about 20 miles west of Amarillo, the whole landscape changes dramatically. I was floored. I had never been west of Amarillo on Interstate 40 (that I could recall) and missed quite a bit apparently. After miles of flat land, the whole landscape drops off into a large washbasin. The floor essentially gives way and the highway dips a hundred feet or more into a landscape of mesas, buttes and rolling hills. The soil changed, too. Gone was the rich farmland with dark soil. Here was red and orange sand, with semi-arid desert plants. There were yucca and creosote plants, mesquite trees and cactus. It was remarkable.
I wanted some scenery and I got it throughout eastern New Mexico. I wasn’t to the mountains and canyons yet but the mesas and hills were quite a change from what I was used to. At Santa Rosa, I ventured south along old Route 66 to another small highway. I wanted to check out what the official New Mexico state map called “Site of Coronado’s Bridge.” In my research I knew that there was a legend that Spanish explorer Coronado had led his exploring gang across the wild Pecos River at some point in that area and this small village of Puerto de Luna claimed to be the spot. So I went to check it out. It was only nine miles to the village.
Funny thing, this advertising business. When I got to the village of Puerto de Luna I found a historical sign in the middle of town. It talked about this village being one of the oldest settlements in eastern New Mexico. It talked of Billy the Kid and Wild Bill Hitchcock. Coronado? Nope. Nothing. Nada. I did find a “Coronado Road” but no evidence the Spanish explorer was ever there. Many times going off the beaten path pays off. Sometimes it doesn’t. Funny thing, this advertising business.
As I type this I am sitting in my tent at Villanueva State Park, nearly 11pm MDT, and fighting off gnats. They aren’t as bad here as back home but they sure are pesky things! Any source of light or heat brings them in. Some got stuck in my tent when I set it up. Their fault, I say!
Villanueva State Park is located about 20 miles north of I-40 in a beautiful canyon along the Pecos River. When I got here I found the park crowded with people but it was too late to go anywhere else. So I picked a spot on the upper level, pitched my tent and settled in for the night. It is very beautiful and peaceful here. I can’t wait for what the morning may bring. I hope to capture the sunrise in the canyon on camera and then go walking to some old Spanish ruins they have in the park. There’s a rumor that Coronado was here, too….
Tomorrow I also go to another Spanish site: three old mission ruins in and around Mountainair. Spanish missions are more up my alley than phantom bridges. It's called Salinas National Monument. Here's an internet picture of one of the missions I found:
Good night from the windy, semi-peaceful canyon!
— John
UPDATE: As I post this, I'm sitting in a McDonald's in Moriarity, NM, eating hot cakes. I woke up this morning at 5:45am local time and noticed it was getting light. Afraid of missing another sunrise in the desert (or canyon), I got up and quickly dressed and climed the canyon wall for what I thought would be a magical sunrise. It wasn't magical (some clouds hid the sun) but a nice hike. My sunrise photography record is wishy-washy, at best. By the way... I woke up this morning with Gordon Lightfoot's "Canadian Railroad Trilogy" running through my head. I still can't stop thinking, "There was a time in this fair land when the railroad did not run...."
... "The wild, majestic mountains stood alone against the sun..."
... "Long before the white man and long before the wheel..."
Ugh.
"When the deep, dark forest was too silent to be real."
.
Drove from Flower Mound to Villanueva, New Mexico. On a tank and a half of gas and a Gordon Lightfoot anthology.
Observations: The drive was a long one, though for some reason I expected it to feel longer. Maybe the excitement of finally going someplace new (or long lost) was making the town-to-town journey more bearable. I like driving in populated parts of the country, where you know that every 30 miles there is going to be another town or city and the chances of finding a gas station are good.
The northwestern portion of North Texas isn’t very scenic by most standards. Just field after field of farms, flat as can be, with a few trees scattered about every few miles. When I was driving, I couldn’t help but notice how far I could see. Trees and buildings really block my view in the suburbs. Out on the prairie I could see for 20 miles or more. Around Quanah there are four or so strange hills jutting out of the ground, sticking out like four sore thumbs. They appear to be natural formations but the ancient Comanches thought them to be medicine mounds, homes to spirits who could drive out illness. As a result, the mounds are sacred sites to that tribe. I didn’t have a chance to explore due to time constraints but may on my way back home.
Amarillo was… well, Amarillo. Flat, flat and more flat. But about 20 miles west of Amarillo, the whole landscape changes dramatically. I was floored. I had never been west of Amarillo on Interstate 40 (that I could recall) and missed quite a bit apparently. After miles of flat land, the whole landscape drops off into a large washbasin. The floor essentially gives way and the highway dips a hundred feet or more into a landscape of mesas, buttes and rolling hills. The soil changed, too. Gone was the rich farmland with dark soil. Here was red and orange sand, with semi-arid desert plants. There were yucca and creosote plants, mesquite trees and cactus. It was remarkable.
I wanted some scenery and I got it throughout eastern New Mexico. I wasn’t to the mountains and canyons yet but the mesas and hills were quite a change from what I was used to. At Santa Rosa, I ventured south along old Route 66 to another small highway. I wanted to check out what the official New Mexico state map called “Site of Coronado’s Bridge.” In my research I knew that there was a legend that Spanish explorer Coronado had led his exploring gang across the wild Pecos River at some point in that area and this small village of Puerto de Luna claimed to be the spot. So I went to check it out. It was only nine miles to the village.
Funny thing, this advertising business. When I got to the village of Puerto de Luna I found a historical sign in the middle of town. It talked about this village being one of the oldest settlements in eastern New Mexico. It talked of Billy the Kid and Wild Bill Hitchcock. Coronado? Nope. Nothing. Nada. I did find a “Coronado Road” but no evidence the Spanish explorer was ever there. Many times going off the beaten path pays off. Sometimes it doesn’t. Funny thing, this advertising business.
As I type this I am sitting in my tent at Villanueva State Park, nearly 11pm MDT, and fighting off gnats. They aren’t as bad here as back home but they sure are pesky things! Any source of light or heat brings them in. Some got stuck in my tent when I set it up. Their fault, I say!
Villanueva State Park is located about 20 miles north of I-40 in a beautiful canyon along the Pecos River. When I got here I found the park crowded with people but it was too late to go anywhere else. So I picked a spot on the upper level, pitched my tent and settled in for the night. It is very beautiful and peaceful here. I can’t wait for what the morning may bring. I hope to capture the sunrise in the canyon on camera and then go walking to some old Spanish ruins they have in the park. There’s a rumor that Coronado was here, too….
Tomorrow I also go to another Spanish site: three old mission ruins in and around Mountainair. Spanish missions are more up my alley than phantom bridges. It's called Salinas National Monument. Here's an internet picture of one of the missions I found:Good night from the windy, semi-peaceful canyon!
— John
UPDATE: As I post this, I'm sitting in a McDonald's in Moriarity, NM, eating hot cakes. I woke up this morning at 5:45am local time and noticed it was getting light. Afraid of missing another sunrise in the desert (or canyon), I got up and quickly dressed and climed the canyon wall for what I thought would be a magical sunrise. It wasn't magical (some clouds hid the sun) but a nice hike. My sunrise photography record is wishy-washy, at best. By the way... I woke up this morning with Gordon Lightfoot's "Canadian Railroad Trilogy" running through my head. I still can't stop thinking, "There was a time in this fair land when the railroad did not run...."
... "The wild, majestic mountains stood alone against the sun..."
... "Long before the white man and long before the wheel..."
Ugh.
"When the deep, dark forest was too silent to be real."
.
Friday, June 4, 2010
Off the Beaten Path
Well, ladies and gents, I can finally let the cat out of the bag (speaking of which, why was the cat in the bag to begin with? And why can't the cat get itself out of the bag?) and announce the theme of my vacation.
"John Newton: Off the Beaten Path"
My goal is to explore the culturally, historically and geographically important sites that lie... off the beaten path. No interstate attractions, no mega-popular tourist traps, no way! I go to visit, document and explore the most interesting sites of America that lie on state highways and isolated byways, country roads and ancient trails. Places you may never know about if you're cruising at 75 mph on the interstate or fighting traffic in the suburbs.
Over the course of my young life I have found that a lot of America's history doesn't have "tourist" written on it. It's that rural bridge that was built during the war to bring supplies to the front lines, speeding up the outcome of battle and saving lives. It's the bayou mansion that was spared from burning during the Civil War, allowing a world famous painter to find refuge there during the South's darkest days and paint his masterpieces. It's the volcano that erupted a long time ago, spewing ash that coated the plains and desert lands, allowing for massive earth sculptures to be carved out of that ash by wind and rain and time. It's that ancient pueblo that sheltered a group of people for hundreds of years until a Spanish explorer came rumbling by and messed with their peaceful lives. It's America. Off the Beaten Path.
I have a fascination with those places that aided and embedded the history of this land and its people. Always have. From Texas history to the Santa Fe Trail to long lost railroads. I have loved it all and spent countless hours researching, reading and soaking it in.
So when I was looking for something to call my vacation adventure, I felt compelled to call it "John Newton: Off the Beaten Path." My dad suggested that I call it "John Versus the Volcano," which I also really like since I am going to New Mexico to see volcanic features. I was thinking more along the lines of "Survivor: El Malpais (The Badlands)." But I hope to avoid every kind of survival situation on this trip. I like the campgrounds, especially those with electricity. And I like Wi-fi and cities.
Tomorrow morning I take off from Flower Mound for the Texas panhandle to document the first few editions of OTBP, on still camera, video camera and in writing.
Oh, and I hope to get some rest. And have fun. I think I deserve it.
I'll check in through this blog whenever I can during my 9-day trip. I've heard that McDonald's now has free Wi-fi, as does Barnes and Noble, Borders, and other bookstores. I just hope my outdated laptop can connect. Otherwise... I shudder at the thought of nine days without the world wide web! Easy, mind, easy...
I need to finish packing for my trip. See y'all on the flip side of tomorrow!
— John
.
"John Newton: Off the Beaten Path"
My goal is to explore the culturally, historically and geographically important sites that lie... off the beaten path. No interstate attractions, no mega-popular tourist traps, no way! I go to visit, document and explore the most interesting sites of America that lie on state highways and isolated byways, country roads and ancient trails. Places you may never know about if you're cruising at 75 mph on the interstate or fighting traffic in the suburbs.
Over the course of my young life I have found that a lot of America's history doesn't have "tourist" written on it. It's that rural bridge that was built during the war to bring supplies to the front lines, speeding up the outcome of battle and saving lives. It's the bayou mansion that was spared from burning during the Civil War, allowing a world famous painter to find refuge there during the South's darkest days and paint his masterpieces. It's the volcano that erupted a long time ago, spewing ash that coated the plains and desert lands, allowing for massive earth sculptures to be carved out of that ash by wind and rain and time. It's that ancient pueblo that sheltered a group of people for hundreds of years until a Spanish explorer came rumbling by and messed with their peaceful lives. It's America. Off the Beaten Path.
I have a fascination with those places that aided and embedded the history of this land and its people. Always have. From Texas history to the Santa Fe Trail to long lost railroads. I have loved it all and spent countless hours researching, reading and soaking it in.
So when I was looking for something to call my vacation adventure, I felt compelled to call it "John Newton: Off the Beaten Path." My dad suggested that I call it "John Versus the Volcano," which I also really like since I am going to New Mexico to see volcanic features. I was thinking more along the lines of "Survivor: El Malpais (The Badlands)." But I hope to avoid every kind of survival situation on this trip. I like the campgrounds, especially those with electricity. And I like Wi-fi and cities.
Tomorrow morning I take off from Flower Mound for the Texas panhandle to document the first few editions of OTBP, on still camera, video camera and in writing.
Oh, and I hope to get some rest. And have fun. I think I deserve it.
I'll check in through this blog whenever I can during my 9-day trip. I've heard that McDonald's now has free Wi-fi, as does Barnes and Noble, Borders, and other bookstores. I just hope my outdated laptop can connect. Otherwise... I shudder at the thought of nine days without the world wide web! Easy, mind, easy...
I need to finish packing for my trip. See y'all on the flip side of tomorrow!
— John
.
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